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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated high among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.